In Hawaii, blessed with a rich sea, land, and favorable climate, there is a growing movement to reevaluate local ingredients. This trend is also connected to issues of food sustainability. We visited a popular restaurant with a farm-to-table theme.

An experience that evokes the seasons like never before

Kaimuki is a town on the mountain side of Diamond Head. Chris Kajioka’s restaurant, Miro Kaimuki, is located here. Kajioka, a fourth-generation Japanese American, grew up in this neighborhood. He studied at a culinary school in New York and built his career at renowned establishments such as Thomas Keller’s Per Se. Eventually, he returned to Honolulu and successfully established several high-end restaurants. ‘There was a Japanese chef’s restaurant, Café Miro, that had been here for 20 years. When I heard it was closing, I decided that, since I grew up in this area, I should be the one to carry on in this place,’ Kajioka said. He emphasizes that the most important aspect of his cooking is to maximize the quality of local ingredients. ‘I believe the highest expression of cuisine is to make the most of the blessings of the land we live on. This is not just a challenge for chefs. By supporting the local economy, farmers, fishermen, and ranchers can continue to work.’

Kajioka showed us a platter of freshly harvested local vegetables. The bright yellow carrots were from Mao Organic Farms, and the finger limes were from the Big Island. The size of the turmeric from Hirabara Farm was also impressive. ‘Every month, it is a tough job, but we create a new prix-fixe menu incorporating local ingredients. Alongside farm-to-table, another priority is to be mindful of seasonality. This is precisely why I respect Japanese cuisine. We aim to offer delicious experiences that evoke the seasonality of ingredients, something that hasn’t been prominent in Hawaii until now.

Owner Chef Chris Kajioka. Having honed his skills at renowned establishments in San Francisco and New York, he returned to Hawaii where he has made popular spots of Vintage Cave Honolulu and Senia, among others, with numerous accolades.

(Left) Yellow carrots from Mao Farms are cooked and dressed with a sesame and ginger vinaigrette, accompanied by sprouted lentils and a hint of sansho pepper.

(Middle) Gnocchi made from ulu, a starchy staple for native Hawaiians, served with spring onions and morel mushrooms, topped with a lemon and ricotta cheese sauce.

(Right) Cheesecake mousse paired with calamansi citrus and drizzled with olive oil.

text / YOSHIAKI NIMURA, Photographs / AKIRA KUMAGAI, Coordinator / HISAKO SANJO